What detailing costs. All of it, in writing.

Every job gets documented. Before shots at the walkthrough, after shots at handoff. You get to see the difference instead of taking my word for it.

All the trash comes out and your personal items get set aside somewhere safe. Floor mats come out of the vehicle entirely and get cleaned separately. Rubber mats are scrubbed and rinsed, cloth mats get blown out and vacuumed.

A pass for the big stuff before any deep work. This clears the loose debris so the detailed pass can actually reach the fibers instead of pushing crumbs around.

Compressed air blasts dirt out of the places a vacuum nozzle cannot reach: seat rails, the cracks between cushions, under the seats, along the trim seams. I vacuum as I go, working from the rear seats forward.

If there are stains worth chasing, this is where they get treated: light mist, cleaning solution, agitation with a soft brush, then extraction in overlapping straight passes. The fabric comes out damp, not soaked, and I tell you the drying time up front.

Dash, console, door panels, steering wheel, cup holders, leather, and plastic trim all get cleaned by hand and treated with a UV protectant. That last part is what keeps a Texas dashboard from fading and cracking.

Vents get a light amount of product pushed through the slats with air, never soaked. Pedals get brushed and wiped dry, then checked so they are not slippery. Door jambs, hinges, latches, and rubber seals get cleaned too, since that is the part you touch every single time you get in.

Interior glass and screens done streak free and checked from several angles. Mats back in, seats and belts reset, your belongings placed neatly on the front passenger seat. After photos, then we walk the finished car together. You pay once you have seen it.

We look at the paint together first. Existing scratches, chips, and dents get documented before I touch anything, and the price gets confirmed while we are standing there.

Documented the same way as every other service, so the after shots mean something.

Wheels are the dirtiest part of the vehicle, so they go first. Rinse, degreaser, then scrubbing the sidewalls, the faces, and the inner barrels most places skip entirely. Rinse again. No tire shine yet, that comes much later.

The parts you see every time you open the door, and that almost nobody cleans. Washed with a mitt and rinsed from the inside outward so water does not run into the vehicle.

The entire car gets covered in foam and left alone for two to three minutes with nothing touching it. That dwell time softens and lifts the dirt so it rinses away instead of getting dragged across your clear coat.

Hand wash with a clean microfiber mitt, rinsed constantly. Roof first, then glass, then upper panels, then the middle, then the lower panels dead last. Heavy lubrication, never heavy pressure.

Paint picks up embedded contamination from Texas roads that soap will not touch. A clay towel pulls it out, worked in small sections with plenty of lubrication. Run your hand over the paint after and it goes from slightly gritty to glass smooth.

Either the spray wax included with the service, misted onto the still-wet vehicle and dried in, or the upgraded 1-year ceramic wax, which needs the car completely dry first and gets applied and buffed one panel at a time.

Tire shine and trim restore go on only after the vehicle is fully dry, so nothing slings or runs down your paint. Exterior glass gets checked from multiple angles for streaks, equipment gets cleared, wheels get straightened, and we walk it together.

We inspect the paint together and I show you what is actually there: swirls, scratches, oxidation. We agree on the correction level and the full price before anything starts. I explain what I can safely do and what I cannot, and you approve the plan.

All four sides, plus close-ups of the specific defects we discussed. That is how you judge the correction honestly afterward instead of guessing.

Foam pre-soak, wheels and tires, door jambs, then a full contact wash top to bottom. This is the exterior detail process, done as prep.

Every painted surface and the glass get clayed, then the vehicle is dried completely with no water left anywhere.

Indoors or in shade, never in direct sunlight, under a light built for finding paint defects. This is where we confirm exactly which defects are getting addressed.

Polishing one panel at a time in overlapping straight passes, inspecting under the light after each one, stopping when the defects are sufficiently reduced. A One-Step is included. A Two-Step removes more, and more clear coat with it, so it only happens with your approval and only if the paint can safely give it.

Every painted panel, the glass, and the trim get wiped down to strip away all polish oils, residue, and fingerprints. Fresh microfiber every panel or two, and no bare-hand contact after this point.

Shade or garage, no direct sun on the panels, temperature and humidity inside the coating's range. Then Gtechniq goes on one panel at a time in a crosshatch pattern, and gets leveled the moment it flashes.

Every panel checked again for high spots, streaks, and unleveled areas, including the edges and body lines where coating likes to pile up. High spots get corrected with a light buff, never with more product.

After photos, a walkthrough of the finished car, and written care instructions. Then three rules for the first week: keep it covered 24 hours, no washing for 7 days, and never run it through an automatic wash again.