Professional Gtechniq protection with real paint correction, applied at your home in Sugar Land and across Fort Bend County. No shop drop-off, and every coating is applied personally by me.
★★★★★ 5.0 on Google · 17 reviewsHouston heat, UV, pollen, and road grime eat unprotected clear coat a little more every year. A professional ceramic coating bonds to your paint and becomes the sacrificial layer that takes that abuse instead. Water beads off. Dirt releases with a rinse. The deep gloss from the paint correction gets locked in, not washed away in three weeks like a wax. Wash days get shorter, and the finish still turns your head five years from now.
This is not a spray-on ceramic from a bottle at the car wash. It is a full-day, appointment-only service, and every piece of it is included.
I inspect your paint with you under dedicated lighting, document its true condition, and we agree on exactly what correction it needs before anything touches the car. You approve the plan and the full price up front.
A One-Step machine polish is included in every coating to remove light swirls and bring out gloss before the coating locks the finish in. If your paint needs deeper correction, I will show you why and quote a Two-Step honestly, and only do it with your approval.
I use Gtechniq, a professional-grade ceramic system, applied panel by panel in controlled conditions. Not a consumer spray, not a $30 bottle from the parts store.
Your coating cures over the first days on the car. You get simple written care instructions at handoff, and you can text me anytime that first week with questions. I stay reachable until the coating is fully settled.
Around the 6-month mark I come back, wash the vehicle, and inspect the coating to confirm it is performing the way it should. It is included with your coating, and nobody else around here offers it. A coating is a five-year relationship with your paint, so I would rather lay eyes on it than assume.
Final quote depends on vehicle size and paint condition, and you will have the exact number before I begin. I confirm every request personally within 24 hours.
Before I leave, we walk the finished vehicle together under the light, panel by panel. If something is not right, tell me and I will make it right. You pay after the job is done, once you have seen it with your own eyes. That is how the Air Force taught me to sign my name to work, and it is how this business runs.
Plenty of shops oversell this service. Here is the truth, before you spend the money.
A coating will not stop rock chips, door dings, or a shopping cart. Anyone who tells you otherwise is selling you something. It protects against the chemical and UV side of the world, not the physical side.
Paint correction dramatically improves swirls and light scratches, but nobody can honestly promise every last one disappears, and chasing perfection thins your clear coat. I correct as much as your paint can safely give and show you the results panel by panel.
A coated car still needs washing. It just needs a lot less of it, and it rewards every wash by looking like it did on day one instead of fighting you.
This is the actual order I work in, not a generic list. Step through it and see what your money buys.
We walk the vehicle together before anything starts. I look at the real condition, note any pre-existing damage, and confirm the price. If something like heavy pet hair would change the number, you hear it now, not at the end.
Every job gets documented. Before shots at the walkthrough, after shots at handoff. You get to see the difference instead of taking my word for it.
All the trash comes out and your personal items get set aside somewhere safe. Floor mats come out of the vehicle entirely and get cleaned separately. Rubber mats are scrubbed and rinsed, cloth mats get blown out and vacuumed.
A pass for the big stuff before any deep work. This clears the loose debris so the detailed pass can actually reach the fibers instead of pushing crumbs around.
Compressed air blasts dirt out of the places a vacuum nozzle cannot reach: seat rails, the cracks between cushions, under the seats, along the trim seams. I vacuum as I go, working from the rear seats forward.
If there are stains worth chasing, this is where they get treated: light mist, cleaning solution, agitation with a soft brush, then extraction in overlapping straight passes. The fabric comes out damp, not soaked, and I tell you the drying time up front.
Dash, console, door panels, steering wheel, cup holders, leather, and plastic trim all get cleaned by hand and treated with a UV protectant. That last part is what keeps a Texas dashboard from fading and cracking.
Vents get a light amount of product pushed through the slats with air, never soaked. Pedals get brushed and wiped dry, then checked so they are not slippery. Door jambs, hinges, latches, and rubber seals get cleaned too, since that is the part you touch every single time you get in.
Interior glass and screens done streak free and checked from several angles. Mats back in, seats and belts reset, your belongings placed neatly on the front passenger seat. After photos, then we walk the finished car together. You pay once you have seen it.
We look at the paint together first. Existing scratches, chips, and dents get documented before I touch anything, and the price gets confirmed while we are standing there.
Documented the same way as every other service, so the after shots mean something.
Wheels are the dirtiest part of the vehicle, so they go first. Rinse, degreaser, then scrubbing the sidewalls, the faces, and the inner barrels most places skip entirely. Rinse again. No tire shine yet, that comes much later.
The parts you see every time you open the door, and that almost nobody cleans. Washed with a mitt and rinsed from the inside outward so water does not run into the vehicle.
The entire car gets covered in foam and left alone for two to three minutes with nothing touching it. That dwell time softens and lifts the dirt so it rinses away instead of getting dragged across your clear coat.
Hand wash with a clean microfiber mitt, rinsed constantly. Roof first, then glass, then upper panels, then the middle, then the lower panels dead last. Heavy lubrication, never heavy pressure.
Paint picks up embedded contamination from Texas roads that soap will not touch. A clay towel pulls it out, worked in small sections with plenty of lubrication. Run your hand over the paint after and it goes from slightly gritty to glass smooth.
Either the spray wax included with the service, misted onto the still-wet vehicle and dried in, or the upgraded 1-year ceramic wax, which needs the car completely dry first and gets applied and buffed one panel at a time.
Tire shine and trim restore go on only after the vehicle is fully dry, so nothing slings or runs down your paint. Exterior glass gets checked from multiple angles for streaks, equipment gets cleared, wheels get straightened, and we walk it together.
We inspect the paint together and I show you what is actually there: swirls, scratches, oxidation. We agree on the correction level and the full price before anything starts. I explain what I can safely do and what I cannot, and you approve the plan.
All four sides, plus close-ups of the specific defects we discussed. That is how you judge the correction honestly afterward instead of guessing.
Foam pre-soak, wheels and tires, door jambs, then a full contact wash top to bottom. This is the exterior detail process, done as prep.
Every painted surface and the glass get clayed, then the vehicle is dried completely with no water left anywhere.
Indoors or in shade, never in direct sunlight, under a light built for finding paint defects. This is where we confirm exactly which defects are getting addressed.
Polishing one panel at a time in overlapping straight passes, inspecting under the light after each one, stopping when the defects are sufficiently reduced. A One-Step is included. A Two-Step removes more, and more clear coat with it, so it only happens with your approval and only if the paint can safely give it.
Every painted panel, the glass, and the trim get wiped down to strip away all polish oils, residue, and fingerprints. Fresh microfiber every panel or two, and no bare-hand contact after this point.
Shade or garage, no direct sun on the panels, temperature and humidity inside the coating's range. Then Gtechniq goes on one panel at a time in a crosshatch pattern, and gets leveled the moment it flashes.
Every panel checked again for high spots, streaks, and unleveled areas, including the edges and body lines where coating likes to pile up. High spots get corrected with a light buff, never with more product.
After photos, a walkthrough of the finished car, and written care instructions. Then three rules for the first week: keep it covered 24 hours, no washing for 7 days, and never run it through an automatic wash again.
Your part is small, but it matters. The coating is still hardening after I drive away.
A garage or a covered spot for the first day while the coating begins its cure. No rain, no sprinklers, no bird droppings on fresh coating.
The coating needs the full week to finish curing. Washing early can disturb it before it has fully hardened onto the paint.
Not during the cure, not after. Those spinning brushes are exactly why coated cars come to me in the first place. Hand wash only from here on.
These three get mixed up constantly, and some shops are happy to let that happen. Flip between them and see the real difference.
Included with every Exterior and Full Detail at no extra cost. It gets misted onto the vehicle while it is still wet and dried in, which leaves gloss and a slick surface that helps water bead off. Think of it as the finishing touch on a wash rather than long term armor.
A genuine upgrade, and a different product entirely. The vehicle has to be completely dry first, then it goes on one panel at a time and gets buffed off by hand. It bonds to the paint and holds gloss and beading for up to a year, which means it is still working next summer.
A different category of service and a full day of work. Full decontamination, machine polishing to cut down the swirls that are already there, a panel wipe to strip every trace of polish oil, then a professional Gtechniq coating applied panel by panel. It needs 12 to 24 hours to cure afterward.
Nothing in this chart stops a rock chip or a door ding, and any shop that tells you otherwise is selling you something. A coating is a sacrificial layer between the environment and your paint, not body armor. Whichever one fits your car, the final price is confirmed together at the walkthrough before any work starts.
A coating is a real amount of money, so here is the honest comparison against whatever you are doing now. Some of these answers do not favor the coating, and it says so.
1 · What are you driving?
2 · How do you protect the paint today?
Assumes what you tell me above, held steady for five years.
Over the next five years
Coating jobs are appointment-only and I take a limited number each month, because correction and cure time cannot be rushed. Send the request with the year, make, model, and how the paint looks, and I will come back with an exact price and the next available coating day. Every booking is a request, and I confirm personally within 24 hours.
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